Begin with use, fit and proportion

Describe how the piece will be worn, the preferred metal, approximate scale and any stones to be incorporated. Reference images can communicate direction, but they should lead to an original brief rather than a promise to reproduce another designer’s work. Discuss comfort, height, snagging and everyday use early. These details influence the design just as much as the silhouette seen in a front-facing image.

Select stones with the design in mind

A stone’s dimensions and outline matter to the structure around it. Two diamonds of the same carat weight may require different settings because their measurements differ. Confirm whether a design is being developed around a selected stone or around a specification that will be sourced later. For several stones, define the matching priorities before the model is finalised, and identify any selection still awaiting confirmation.

Use CAD to resolve the structure

Computer-aided design provides a three-dimensional model that can support visual review and manufacturing preparation. Examine more than the beauty view: side and underside views reveal height, support and the relationship between components. Discuss which measurements are fixed and which remain subject to manufacturing review. A render’s polished reflections are presentation choices; they do not prove the finished metal colour, stone performance or exact appearance under everyday lighting.

Move from model to material

Depending on the design and workshop process, manufacturing may involve a physical model, casting, fabrication, assembly and several finishing operations. The sequence is specific to the piece. Ask which stages and approval points apply to your commission, including whether a physical prototype is useful. Keep revisions documented so that a change to stone size, metal or setting detail does not become an unnoticed change to the agreed design.

Setting and inspection complete the work

Setting secures each stone within the designed structure. Finishing and inspection then consider the piece as a whole, including fit, surface condition and the security of its components. Review the completed jewellery against the agreed brief and retain the relevant stone documents and care instructions. An animation can explain this journey, but it should clearly separate conceptual previews from photography of an actual completed commission.

Sources & further reading

GIA: CAD/CAM for jewelleryGIA: Technology and jewellery designGIA: Jewellery education and manufacturingGIA: Carat weight and sizeGIA: Protecting diamond jewellery